o’connors o’pinions

The Hotel of Lost Dreams

Sat 28 Feb 2009 - published by Frank - and the main ideea is: romania..., theatre, visual

We went to see a play at the Odeon Theatre Bucharest. It’s been about three years since we last went. Because when we last went, it was so awful that we swore to never go again. Time and circumstance conspired against us, however. So we wound up jammed in a loggia without hope or expectation. And, unsurprisingly, that total lack of both was completely fulfilled.

The play was ‘Hotel Room’, a piece originally written for TV, for David Lynch, in fact. So one might expect dark, one might expect moody. At the very least, I imagine, a sense of intangible strangeness. But that’s not how they do things at the Odeon.

The Odeon has a set procedure for all plays. Rule number one is ‘Make it quirky!’ (the exclamation mark here, is essential). The rule dictates that, any chance you get, make a character do something odd. Have them fall over. Make them stand in a corner. Song and dance numbers are mandatory, even in Ibsen. I’ve even see them have every character on stage raise their right leg, all at once, for absolutely no reason other than a pause in the dialogue.

Rule 2 is ‘Distract the audience’. This can be done by having one character creep up on another, or by having a few totally unrelated characters talking and moving in the background, or (as I also saw once) have a thousand different colored ping pong balls roll onto the stage down a hill. As long as it distracts from the text or nuance, it goes in.

Rule 3 is ‘Always use the same characters.’ The Odeon has about four or five stock characters, drawn from the archaic world of television soap opera. There’s the ‘Cute Kid’ – a little girl, always smiling, always happy. There’s ‘Block Mom’, the older woman, resigned, in charge, wise but hard-working. There’s ‘Daft Old Guy’ – he shuffles about muttering to himself. There’s ‘Naive Guy’ – always played by the same actor, who specializes in innocence. And there’s ‘Guy In Charge’ – who speaks for himself, really.

These rules were assiduously applied to ‘Hotel Room’ just as they are to any other play, be it by Shakespeare, David Mamet, Chekhov or Sophocles.

Part one of ‘Hotel Room’ is about two men and a prostitute. Lots of potential for dark meandering there. But not with the Odeon. We got ‘Daft Old Guy’, ‘Man In Charge’ and, naturally, ‘Cute Kid’ as the most unlikely prostitute ever seen on stage. When one of the characters visits the toilet, we get the quirky distraction of the sound of them peeing, played for an age, while ‘Cute Kid’ giggles along, knowingly, with the audience. We also got an islamic bell-hop, dressed in tribal clothes, who does nothing other than wander about and be ‘hilariously’ islamic.

Part two concerns a husband and wife struggling with madness and the death of a child. We got ‘Naive Guy’ and ‘Cute Kid’ – along with lots of candles. They were so inept and inappropriate that the piece took on a strange new level of surrealism all its own – that of characters mouthing words which have nothing to do with them.

The Odeon saved the best for last. In part three, we got treated to ‘Block Mom’ and ‘Cute Kid’ doing an extended dance number to ‘Woolly Bully’ by the appropriately named ‘Sam the Sham and the Pharaos’.

It was an evening I won’t forget. Never before have my sensibilities been assaulted by ignorance on such a large scale. I was left drained and depressed, and I carried home an extended migraine that lasted all weekend. So stunned was I that I got hold of the original TV version, directed by Lynch and starring Harry Dean Stanton and Christian Slater. And there it all was – the darkness, the undercurrent of malevolance and despair. Pitch perfect performances and absolute realism of character. While the script is by no means perfect, the film managed, at times, to achieve a genuine sense of brilliance. I am sure that Lynch was sorely tempted to throw in a song and dance number at some point, but being the genius that he is, he resisted that particular path to easy money.

Grafitti pieces of Bucharest

Wed 1 Oct 2008 - published by Frank - and the main ideea is: romania...

Some Romanian economists complain that the country exports nothing of its own. That’s why you don’t see Mici in the supermarkets of Paris, or large bags of fresh Spaga on sale in Madrid. But Romania does have some unique potential. Take the graffiti, for example. It’s quite unlike any grafitti you’ll find anywhere else, even Mars. It has a strange quality of complete inexplicability that could sell very well in the art houses of Bruges.

Wandering through Bucharest recently, we discovered this:

Who can find words to follow that? Well, there’s the Japanese foreign minister, for one. I am sure that, were this piece brought to his or her attention, they would make an official complaint to the Romanian Government, insisting that Japanese people are not aliens. Adding perhaps that they are, quite simply, people from Japan.

Taking a closer look, we discovered that someone had sprayed a stencil over the original:

At first sight, the words ‘incredibly racist’ might spring to mind. But if you look closely you can see the really radical and, hey – let’s go for it, ’subversive’ copyright symbols, because this, like, just gets at and I mean, like, gets at those big old grasping corporations run by guys with cigars, like, yeah? I mean, it’s saying, on some level, that everything is a coroporate symbol, even, like a swastika. Which is true. Ask any Nazi. They might have been evil incarnate, but they had great accountants. And that, I think, in a nutshell, is the lesson here.

REALLY IMPORTANT UPDATE!!

It just goes to show, when it comes to grafitti, there is always more to learn. The figure spouting dubious assertions on the validity of the Japanese on Earth is called ‘Keke’ and it’s all over the place. The idea seems to be to draw Keke and then have it say some random quote. Anything will do. Off the top of my head – “Anarchist’s only drink herbal tea because all proper tea is theft”. And I mention Anarchists spuriously. An actual quote is more like “Everything is blue and there’s no clouds in the sky”. Yeah. I was stunned too. Its street art you understand. And “Street art is like, so hard to do” as Rembrandt once memorably quipped. Still, for those of you itching to see more, here’s A boatload of Keke.

Last night’s concert…

Fri 26 Sep 2008 - published by Tia - and the main ideea is: musique, romania...

… was another offering from the French Cultural Center in Bucharest, who decided a couple of years ago to introduce the Romanian public to the tradition of early/baroque music. Considering that Bucharest is a place were ‘culturally exceptional’ usually means less traffic than usual, this is an oasis for the local music lovers – ensamble “Les Basses Reunis”, “Les Lunaisiens” (Arnaud Marzorati – bass and Jean Francois Novelli – tenor, marvelous voices!).

Here are two of “Les Basses Reunis” members, with the superb Romanian violin player Mira Glodeanu in a concert that I watched last year on Mezzo TV.

Romanian Communist block mentality

Wed 13 Aug 2008 - published by Tia si Frank - and the main ideea is: romania...

Our friend’s mother found this note in the entrance hall of the block that she lives in in Piata Unirii. The translation is exact from the original:

“Please repair the central heating system and tell us in time when something gets broken ’cause we have been without hot water for three days. It is not normal that in a block from the center of the capital in 2008 to not have hot water for three days or and the lady from the 5th floor should repair the pipes, the lady from apartment 50 is asked to repair once and for all all of the pipes and the drainage pipes in the house ’cause weekly something gets broken in the house and to stop renting the apartment to all the Arabs and all the Jews that come at night with company ladies, this is not a hotel or a block in construction for the pharmacist from the first floor who has been terrorizing us with the noise and the garbage for a year since he has been working on the two apartments, good thing that we have been left without interphone for two weeks because of some primitive neighbours who don’t know how to speak at the interphone and open the block main door to everybody. stop opening the door through the interphone to those with advertising or to strangers, nobody cares that the outside lights don’t work that we are afraid of street dogs or to get in the entrance hall, do we have a block administrator or not or a (owners comitee) president, and we pretend that we are a civilized block with goodwill people and who have good positions.”

I’m sure you can sympathize with the original author of this tolerant, literate, sensible, rational and sensitive plea. It can’t be very nice for them, living in a building site of terror, where foreigners, prostitutes and crazed street dogs can just wander in and out at all hours, stealing water, because the front door is just flapping away on its hinges after having been ripped off by large primitives the night before. With things getting broken on a weekly basis, and the hot water being siphoned off to Israel or Quatar by an international conspiracy of uncaring neighbors, the poor author of this note had no recourse but to type as fast as possible, then dash downstairs in the dark and put it up in the central hallway for everyone to see. So we are duty bound to tell the world: While it may seem that the apartment blocks around Piata Unirii are shining examples of national goodwill, and that they’re stuffed to the brim with dignified people in good positions, which is what everyone thinks, of course – it’s just not true. They’re sink holes of depravity, full of poverty stricken water thieves and accidents. So, tell the world and spread the story, so that someone can come from America and free the noble poet of truth from the building of lies.

Palm Sunday Fair at RPM

Thu 24 Apr 2008 - published by Tia - and the main ideea is: romania...

We are big funs of the Romanian Peasant Museum in Bucharest and especially the fairs that they organize for Easter, Christmas and other Christian Orthodox celebrations. The last edition was no exception, as usual, we wished we had more money to spend there.
This is the absolute winner picture, they jumped happily and grouped themselves on the bench with their precious copper vases.

This time we bought four of this traditional Hungarian cakes, called “kurtos”.

Wooden spoons and “copaie” – a pot used for preparing the dough and not only. The hanging tubular pots are used for storing the dairy products:

Traditional musical instruments:


Three nice portraits of women in traditional costumes from different parts of Romania.



And this is me, with my latest aquisition, a wonderfully sewn traditional bag called “traista”.

The Romanian Peasant Fair

Mon 14 Apr 2008 - published by Tia si Frank - and the main ideea is: romania...

Following the success that the Romanian Peasant Fair had last year before Christmas, The Romanian Peasant Museum decided to make it into a long term event: 10th of April-26th of October, every Saturday from 10.00 to 17.00, and Sunday, from 8.00 to 14.00. We went this morning, took some pictures and bought smoked cheese and sunflower honey from Sibiu. Fortunately, the fair was very busy, so the idea looks to be a popular one.

The fair snuggles cosily in the perfect location – the picturesque blocks of Piata Amzei:


The cheese seller and his hut:



More cheese…


This is a vast industrial machine for making ‘mici’, or small meat rolls. When the mici makers are finished, the whole thing folds up into the shape of a suitcase. This way they can travel unobserved through customs.

Wooden clocks, boxes, mirrors painted with Transilvanian Saxon motives.


This guy was selling traditional cozonac (a traditional Romanian cake for Easter and not only):

This boy sold home made jams and honey. He smiled all the time, despite suffering from a bad case of overexposure:

Traditional smoked aliens (trout actually):

A very original variation on the Romanian ceramic tradition – we bought some at last Saint Nicholas Fair.

Various dead things:

The honey seller from Sibiu:

Djelem Djelem

Wed 9 Apr 2008 - published by Tia - and the main ideea is: romania...

The Museum of Romanian Peasant organizes every two weeks meeting with the ethnic communities living in Romania. So far there’s been two: one with the Jewish community and one with the Rroma community. The latest was really touching and we have learned a lot from it about the Rroma people.
On the 8th of April the Rroma community celebrates their International day.
This is their anthem, Djelem Djelem.

Djelem, djelem, lungone dromensa
Maladilem baxtale Romensa
Djelem, djelem, lungone dromensa
Maladilem baxtale Romensa.
Ay, Romale, Ay, Chavale,
Ay, Romale, Ay, Chavale.
Ay Romale, katar tumen aven
Le tserensa baxtale dromensa
Vi-man sas u bari familiya
Tai mudardya la e kali legiya.
Aven mansa sa lumiake Roma
Kai putaile le Romane droma
Ake vryama – ushti Rom akana
Ame xutasa mishto kai kerasa.
Ay, Romale, Ay Chavale,
Ay, Romale, Ay Chavale.

English translation (by Ron Lee)
I have travelled over long roads
I have met fortunate Roma
I have travelled far and wide
I have met lucky Roma
Oh, Romani adults, Oh Romani youth
Oh, Romani adults, Oh Romani youth
Oh, Roma, from wherever you have come
With your tents along lucky roads
I too once had a large family
But the black legion murdered them
Come with me, Roma of the world
To where the Romani roads have been opened
Now is the time – stand up, Roma,
We shall succeed where we make the effort.
Oh, Roma adults, Oh, Roma youth
Oh, Roma adults, Oh, Roma youth.

© 2009 o’connors o’pinions.

Academics Blogs -  Blog Catalog Blog Directory Blog Directory blog search directory Blog Directory
Blog Flux Directory Irish Blogs Directory